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Thread: Engine stalling

  1. #1

    Default Engine stalling

    Hi all, facing weird problem with my car now.

    All was fine until yesterday, when I started my car, the idling was super low, about 600rpm, and car was vibrating non-stop. When aircon was switched on, lagi worse, RPM dropped till abt 300-400, with the aircon compressor going off/on. every second. I just tahan, went home, park my car. Then this mornig, when I start my car, engine started for about half a second then died immediately, happen all e way, until I have to keep my foot on the accelerator all e way to prevent stalling. This now always happen after I cut my engine for long periods of time. Other than that, its only the low idle and idle drop when aircon on problem. Went to mechanice to clean TB today, didnt help. Anyone got any ideas wad's wrong?

  2. #2
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    check spark plugs. there is one bro posted similar encounter when changed TB, in the end a faulty sensor was the culprit. not abt the TB. changed it for 150 bucks if i remember correct.

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    Quote Originally Posted by meowmeow View Post
    Hi all, facing weird problem with my car now.

    All was fine until yesterday, when I started my car, the idling was super low, about 600rpm, and car was vibrating non-stop. When aircon was switched on, lagi worse, RPM dropped till abt 300-400, with the aircon compressor going off/on. every second. I just tahan, went home, park my car. Then this mornig, when I start my car, engine started for about half a second then died immediately, happen all e way, until I have to keep my foot on the accelerator all e way to prevent stalling. This now always happen after I cut my engine for long periods of time. Other than that, its only the low idle and idle drop when aircon on problem. Went to mechanice to clean TB today, didnt help. Anyone got any ideas wad's wrong?
    maybe u wud like to share did u do anything to the car jus before the incident happened?

    u might wish to try to reset ur ECU first to see if it helps.

  4. #4

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    Nothing at all leh. Nv touch my car v long. Only major thing that happen was that is was raining super heavy before this happened.

  5. #5
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    is this your snail car that ure referring to that is having some probs?

  6. #6
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    Your symptoms sound like it's the idling motor....ISC motor...a motor attached to the bottom of the TB. Change it and your problem will go away. Part itself costs $200+ from stockists. Part no. is MD619857.

    Suggest this as the problem to ur workshop mechanic and see what they say and if they diagnose it as the same thing.

  7. #7
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    modding sure is a headache like this :A
    jB ///// /////ART

    Quote Originally Posted by jB
    If you want a fast car, buy a fast car because STOCK IS BEST.:gnorsi:

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jB View Post
    modding sure is a headache like this :A
    Sorry to say bro, this issue has got nothing to do with modding at all. :)

    This is a common wear-and-tear issue. AFAIK, common to Mitsubishi and not considered an uncommon issue in other makes as well. It is a known wear-and-tear issue in CS3, just that since SG drivers like to change cars often, it is not commonly known among drivers here. If you do research in foreign forums where our SG CS3s are exported to, it is a well-known issue.

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    Quote Originally Posted by icekitten View Post
    Sorry to say bro, this issue has got nothing to do with modding at all. :)

    This is a common wear-and-tear issue. AFAIK, common to Mitsubishi and not considered an uncommon issue in other makes as well. It is a known wear-and-tear issue in CS3, just that since SG drivers like to change cars often, it is not commonly known among drivers here. If you do research in foreign forums where our SG CS3s are exported to, it is a well-known issue.
    Sooooooooo, whats the cause? AFAIK? Care to elaborate for our bro here who has the problem? It'll be useful to him.. :clap:
    jB ///// /////ART

    Quote Originally Posted by jB
    If you want a fast car, buy a fast car because STOCK IS BEST.:gnorsi:

  10. #10

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    Yup my mechanic told me its most probably the problem that icekitten pointed out too. Gonna bring my dad's lancer down and do a swap, if it solves e problem then gonna order that part. Thx all for e advices (: Will keep u guys updated.

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    Quote Originally Posted by vogelspinnen View Post
    Yup my mechanic told me its most probably the problem that icekitten pointed out too. Gonna bring my dad's lancer down and do a swap, if it solves e problem then gonna order that part. Thx all for e advices (: Will keep u guys updated.
    Your poor dad's car :death:
    jB ///// /////ART

    Quote Originally Posted by jB
    If you want a fast car, buy a fast car because STOCK IS BEST.:gnorsi:

  12. #12

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    hmm i had the same problem and ended up changed TB.

    icekitten was nice to explain to me abt the idling problem as well.

    Hope you resolve yr problem soon!

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by icekitten View Post
    Your symptoms sound like it's the idling motor....ISC motor...a motor attached to the bottom of the TB. Change it and your problem will go away. Part itself costs $200+ from stockists. Part no. is MD619857.

    Suggest this as the problem to ur workshop mechanic and see what they say and if they diagnose it as the same thing.
    nice to see you here too.
    thanks for your advice and expertise on this. :D

  14. #14

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    common problem? then how old usually will face such problem, izzit easy to fix? (cheap?)

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    Quote Originally Posted by TLCOP View Post
    nice to see you here too.
    thanks for your advice and expertise on this. :D
    Hi!

    I came in when I thought I could help. :)

    Just sharing with fellow lancerians based on personal experiences.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by jB View Post
    Sooooooooo, whats the cause? AFAIK? Care to elaborate for our bro here who has the problem? It'll be useful to him.. :clap:
    Well, it's a common wear-and-tear problem for many cars, as I've gathered from workshop chatter and online research. If you bother to do a Google search on idling problems, you'll find this out.

    I had this problem myself and went through a lot of effort to do research and find out the problem. I went through cleaning of TB, and later when I found out about the ISC motor, had the workshop to dismantle the motor from its housing and clean both to ensure it was a fault and not some dirt or stuff that was preventing it from functioning properly. Finally test-swapped with another CS3's motor to confirm it was the motor. The workshop itself never suggested the motor but the mechanic confirmed it was likely due to the motor only after I raised the issue to him. He was surprised that I knew about the motor and in fact, some other mechanics at the workshop did not know what the motor was. They were all having a learning session when I had them dismantle the motor. :D

    The main problem in diagnosing this issue locally is that firstly, not many mechanics know about the idling motor. They just know the problem lies somewhere with the TB, so they can only suggest things like resetting ECU or cleaning the TB, which for some reason may alleviate symptoms for a short while before the problems resurfaces sometimes days later. Sometimes it doesn't help at all.

    There's one guy who had the same issue, his CS3 was still under warranty, and C&C mechs didn't know about the motor too. What they did was change the entire TB. Good for him, I suppose as it was FOC. However, the entire TB assembly costs $700+ from part stockists if one were to change it at their own workshop if warranty is expired. And that's not counting labour yet. Whereas the ISC motor costs $200+ just to change that part. Changing the motor is actually a very simple job, can be DIYed if you're a hands on type of person.

    Cost is also one of the reasons why workshops are reluctant to diagnose the ISC motor as the cause of the idling problems. Reason being, cost for replacement of the ISC motor is at least $200+, plus labour charges, a workshop will probably charge at least $300 for replacement of the motor. And it doesn't guarantee the problem solved. Because idling issues can be a result of many other factors. Imagine the mech asked a customer to change the part, and the idling problem was still there, it's kind of finding trouble for himself right?

    So workshops take the easy way out. You go to them with low idle, they simply crank the idle up. It masks the symptoms but doesn't solve the problem. Most drivers are none the wiser too.

    Another reason why this issue isn't that common in SG is because our cars are relatively new. Most ppl change their cars at 3-5 yrs. My problem surfaced at about 3 yrs, or about 80000k. And my mileage is considered on the higher than average side I believe. So cars are exported before this wear-and-tear issue surfaces. And so I managed to find out about this issue through foreign Lancer forums, where our SG cars are being exported to, it is a commonly-raised issue there.

    I believe the issue can be diagnosed earlier in manual cars coz when I swapped my faulty motor to an auto ride for testing, the surge in rpm was present, engine shuddered but not yet to the point of stalling, unlike in my manual ride. By the time an auto or cvt ride stalls, the issue was probably long present already but the symptoms not recognised earlier. As mentioned, most drivers are none the wiser, and auto cars are the majority rather than minority now.

    The most noticeable symptom about the failing ISC motor is the surge in rpm. Very erratic idling, drops very low such that the engine shudders, then suddenly rises high above 1k rpm. Even if workshops crank the idling up, the surge is still present too. But the cranking up of idling makes normal idling rpm higher, the high point of surge becomes even higher, and wastes fuel too. And as in TS's experience and mine, driveability is still present if driving without aircon on. In my case, once aircon was on, my engine was practically stalling each time I clutched in at low speeds. And it is an issue where symptoms get progressively worse and occur more and more often if you do not change the motor.

    The reason why the rpm surges and drops significantly esp when aircon is on is because the job of the ISC motor is to regulate idling, mostly when the aircon compressor kicks in. When the aircon compressor kicks in, it saps power from the engine, hence without a properly functioning ISC motor to compensate for the loss in power, the rpm will drop significantly. And when it reaches the point where it is too low to sustain the engine, the engine stalls.

    Sooooooooo, I hope that you find this a detailed enough explanation which helps our bros/sistas here with this issue and maybe urself in future too. And that is AFAIK. ;)
    Last edited by icekitten; 04-Nov-2009 at 08:28 AM.

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    Anyway, as we can learn from this, sometimes car problems doesn't mean it's always related to modding issues.

    A car is a car. There is bound to be wear and tear. Minor parts have to be replaced periodically in order to ensure the engine keeps working reliably. Regardless of whether the car is totally stock or modded. Regular servicing with a good workshop and owner awareness helps to recognise and resolve issues before it is too late for salvage.

    To date, I have replaced the ISC motor, coolant thermostat, oil shield, and recently, timing belt, some hoses (one of them was for the power steering, hose was worn and leaking), and most recently, driveshaft gear and brake master pump. All are common wear-and-tear issues, unrelated to any form of modification. My CS3 has clocked over 100k. And it is quite a workhorse for me.

    This is a good thread topic, which is why I came in to post. Hope it helps to create awareness and don't just think that once you have to replace any part, it means the problem is related to modification or that the car/engine is a lousy one. :)

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zixuan84 View Post
    common problem? then how old usually will face such problem, izzit easy to fix? (cheap?)
    Mine came slightly before 3 yrs, coz I remember I had the issue getting progressively worse for a couple of mths and I had it finally rectified at 3 yrs. My mileage was about 80k by then?

    Know a couple of other CS3s with the same issue, more or less it was about the same timeline. 3 yrs, plus minus, depending on mileage too.

  19. #19
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    Wow, uber long explanation LoL, I just scanned thru the major info. Intriguing..
    jB ///// /////ART

    Quote Originally Posted by jB
    If you want a fast car, buy a fast car because STOCK IS BEST.:gnorsi:

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    Good sharing sister icekitten, very helpful information. At least I can understand now.

    :D

    If many people having problem with you, is your problem.........

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